You need the correct Lishi tool for the series

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its simply the wrong tool for the job , it can do the job but isnt the correct tool for the series.

you will get same issue on both makes of tool on ignition enabled tools , any tool that has been modified for ignition use will be a sloppy fit in the door lock , good examples are nsn14 and hu46 can also affect the HU100 as well as affecting toyota edge key models.

you will be glad of the 8 cut va2 if you get a daf cf series truck or later toyota to open , you will be glad of the 10 cut hu100 if you get an imported silverado the 10 cut hu100 is also useful on some ignitions that even the ignition modified tools wont get full insertion . the first daf cf 300 after 2013 production i met was before this tool was made it had just had a hiab fitted and doors locked with keys in cab when they reconnected the battery , i knew it was va2/va6 profile , but at time no data on instacode or online , so got pick in the lock , felt all 6 wafers , picked all 6 and not opening , so a little thought , i knew all positions were picked so had to be something else , so mainting tension i pulled pick back a few mm , and found another wafer , picked this but as i picked it another dropped so eased pick back in and picked the one that had dropped out and open , 4 others had walked away from it already . there is always good reason for making a new tool , they dont do it for fun.

the distributors could be more accurate with their coverage descriptions , but most will know when buying the tool they need , 6 , 8 , 10 cut etc or at least they should know this info if trading and prior to buying , i prefer OL on some , GL on others and theres 1 model that i prefer autosmart on and 1 model i prefer supertools versions on . but all do the job as long as the right tool for the job is selected .

wait until you meet a saab 9-3 convertible with keys in the boot , picks door a breeze but no way through to boot , then you have to make a pretty big mod to the tool removing alot of metal to get the boot lock , once modified the tool is a very sloppy fit in the door lock , so you tend to buy another for doors and keep the modified one for the boot , done a good few of these over the years as most walk away without thinking about why they dont get full insertion in the boot. none of the manufacturers have modified their tools to deal with the boot lock on these wt47 convertibles due to the impact it has on the tools use in door.

ive had to file and modify many tools from both makes , especially on some toyota and hyundai/kia models using edge keys , tool will go in sweet but wont come back out , when you finally manage to get it out the issue is simple , the peak at the tip of tool is too steep/sharp so the wafer jams behind the peak , so some gentle rounding of the peak with a file cures the issue , id say 60% of my tools have had minor adjustments and mods done to them either on site at a job or on the bench .

in an ideal world people would buy say an hu46 2in1 with just 8 cuts on and an nsn14 2in1 with 8 cuts 3 to 10 on then also buy an ignition tool for each , but the new breed in the trade wanted 1 cheap tool to do both as too tight to buy 2 tools , thus they got what they wanted 1 tool , but this comes with consequences , a tool modified for ignition use will always be a sloppy fit in the door lock and unless perfectly square throughout will be rough in navigation and picking and prone to miss reads in door unless perfectly square