Tips: Picking Sequence and Lock Spiking with Lishi Tools

Some tips of picking sequence and lock spiking for locksmiths with Lishi Tools…

sequences are only a guide dependent on which locations will bind first determined by the plugs construction , it depends which way you are picking as to which positions will bind first , the sequence for picking in one direction will differ when you pick in opposite direction , as tentioning lock in opposite direction therefore wafers bind in opposite sequence. also differs on left and right hand drive vehicles due to lock placement .

the sequence method that the lock design prefers if sequence picking is ;

clockwise : positions 1 , 5 , 9 , 4 and 8 in their binding order first ( you sometimes feel plug turn a fraction once all set ) then once these are set you pick positions 2 , 3 , 6 , 7 and 10 in their binding order to open

anticlockwise is reverse of this picking 2367 and 10 first in their binding order , then pick positions 1 , 5 , 9 , 4 and 8 in their binding order to open .

the reasons for this become obvious when you strip a lock and take note of the wafer and spring positions and how in each direction the interact and bind on the plug wall , its all to do with spring position and wafer configuration.

however , this being said , i ignore sequences , and check all positions in turn picking the binding positions as i go , works far quicker for me , i mix between light and medium tension to help encourage binds . i also like extremely light tension and skip each position to its set position which works very quickly on hu101 and hu64 if locks in good condition , many well under a minute this way , its just a knack.

when you could swear you had all positions picked , did you then increase tension alot ? i ask as wouldnt be the first time using light tension that people pick the lock but dont open it as tension is too light , increase tension and lock turns also in a worn or grubby lock this will rotate plug a fraction to find any binding wafers . remember an overlifted lock also binds .

ive only ever needed to pick an ignition when the door lock is broken or is on a different key , these are an old lock now used since 2003 ive done so many as well as did show demo on these around the world for 7 years at many trade shows that i find it no harder than picking an HU66 , if people struggle on them then it is purely down to lack of bench time and practice , nothing else .

at a show in turkey when the hu101 tool was new , a lockie brought an hu101 to the stand and asked me to pick and decode it to prove tool worked as he didnt trust show locks , it took 2 mins to pick and decode his lock , as i read each decode he wrote it down , his friend then had a go , he picked it in 4 mins and was over moon , he got same decode , by time he was done the original guy was back , he had been to the silca stand and had a key cut to the code i read out , he held the key up a little cocky , inserted it and when it worked perfect his mouth dropped and he and about 40 others all bought an hu101 tool on that 1 demo , my point is no matter what make , its a great tool and with the correct technique and tension and a little practiced skill it really is a quick and accurate tool.

id advise against plug spinning , we have all done it , but i go to alot of locks that have been broken by over tensioned plug spinners , especially on vag and bmw locks , even plug spinning has an element of skill to get the tension just right , so many just wind them up and smash the lock fittings and paddles that can be weak.

spiking i do alot , use a broken hand pick or feeler gauge to jam this between the plug and lock body to hold the lock open and stop it relocking on the spring when you release tension , allows you to swap tools , useful on hu101 and other snib tools to allow you to use a worn tool to pick and a pristine tool to decode after picking . it was how we used to have to do it using blind touch picks and old decoders .

enjoy your play time